York School of Art degree students receive a masterclass in leather

Andrew delivered an inspiring training session to students on three of our York School of Art BA (Hons) courses - Graphic & Communication Design, Fashion Design & Garment Technology, and 3D Creative Practice. 

The session, which was sponsored by The Company of Cordwainers of the City of York, welcomed Master Dr John Ridgeway-Wood onto campus. 

The workshop provided students with a unique opportunity to explore the art of leathercraft, gaining valuable insight into traditional techniques and the intricate process of working with leather, whilst also hearing Andrew’s top tips for a successful career in the arts.

Andrew, whose original career was in archaeology, got into making things from an early age and explained that leather has always been a theme running through his various projects.

The session, delivered to the degree-level students, took them on a journey through the history of leather and the process of how it is created and his story of working with leather as well as the ethical considerations that are important to him. 

On working with leather Andrew shared that “it’s the most wonderful, versatile material; you can almost make anything with it”.

The ethics of working with leather ultimately involve balancing concerns about animal rights, environmental sustainability, and cultural traditions. Different perspectives offer various approaches to these issues, making it a complex ethical landscape. 

Sharing his views on the ethics of leather, Andrew explained:

“Animal welfare is very important to me. When working with a product that comes from a living animal, ethics are vital. It’s important to remember that leather is part of something that once lived and breathed. The animal had emotions, felt sadness and felt joy; that needs to be respected.”

Leather is created by the process of tanning. The raw skin is converted into a non-putrescible material and could originate from a mammal, reptile, amphibian, bird or fish.

The main three methods of tanning used are brain tanning, vegetable tanning and chrome tanning. Andrew shared his preferred method and the sourcing of the leather he uses:

“I only use vegetable tanned leather and skins that would otherwise go to landfill. It’s not quite recycling but it’s heading in that direction. I also don’t use the skins of exotics. Crocodiles for example are farmed for their skin and they’re wild creatures, so to me that’s wrong.

“I’ve worked with vegan leathers, but they are effectively plastic. You can also use pineapple skins. It’s great that we’re looking at alternatives. 

“For anyone considering working with leather, I’d tell them to think about their conscience and what they feel comfortable with.”

Sharing artefacts as well as items made by himself for reconstruction purposes, Andrew brought along an Anglo-Saxon style shoe which he was commissioned to create by Newcastle University. With each piece he reconstructs, Andrew explained that he must consider how they might have been made originally, factoring this into his processes.

Another item enjoyed by the group was a leather water bottle. Made with two seams and soaked in water, the bottle was then stuffed with sand and slowly dried over a four-day period in an oven on a very low temperature. Coated with beeswax, the bottle is completely leakproof. 

Andrew then spent a period of time making more regular items that he designed to last a lifetime, such as bags and cases. The items, being expensive to make and buy, were created on a commission basis.

Seeing a callout for art pieces for Durham Art Gallery, Andrew decided to make a bag from leather which replicated the scars on his face. It was whilst at the opening of the exhibition, he met contemporary artist, writer and broadcaster Grayson Perry, who later sent him a design for a bag. Thinking that he could not turn down the opportunity, Andrew created Perry’s design which was then featured in many well-known publications such as the Daily Mail and Cosmopolitan.

Other projects Andrew has worked on have included seeing his pieces on the big screen in Channel 4’s Bone Detectives, ITV’s Beowulf: Return to the Shieldlands and a remake of film, Hellraiser.

Andrew then became friends with novelist Sarah Moss after she approached him wanting to write an essay on the maker. Her editor at the time Max Porter, who wrote the book Grief is a Thing with Feathers, commissioned Andrew to make a sculpture of the main crow in the book, which he made out of leather. The book was later made into a stage production with Cillian Murphy cast as the main character.

He shared with the group that his career then took another diversion during the Covid pandemic. He, along with some friends, formed a theatre company and he began to create large puppets, made from leather including a five-metre-long dragon.

Around 15 years ago, Andrew started teaching, explaining that: “I think it’s important that if you’ve got a skill, to pass it on.” He has designed accredited courses at various levels and teaches a range of different ages, from teens to adults in their sixties.

“Every single person I’ve taught is more qualified in working with leather than I am as I have absolutely no qualifications in this work,” he pointed out.

A most recent endeavour saw Andrew recruited to mentor on BBC One’s Make it at Market with his focus being on teaching other makers skills on how to get a product out into the market.

Considering his next venture, he shared:

“I want to move into sculpture. The brief I give myself is to find a scrap and not alter the remit too much.”

Looking back at the last 40 years, Andrew ended by sharing these nuggets of advice with the budding artists:

1 Be completely open at all times and receptive to everything.

2 Craft skills are transferable. If you can work with one material, you can probably work with another.

3 Don’t think I can’t do; think how can I do that?

4 Take chances, always. Any opportunity that comes your way, grab it. With many of the things I’ve done, at the start I’ve felt like I didn’t have a clue what I was doing. This will lead you to some great places and you’ll meet some amazing people.

5 Constantly step beyond the edge of your safe zone. Never stay in that place where you’re comfortable. It’s very easy to do and all of us do it. 

6 Stay humble, always. Arrogance gets you nowhere. If you feel like you’re getting a bit cocky, go work with children. I’ve shown five-year-olds my work and sometimes they’ve said it’s terrible. They speak the truth!

7 Commit to passing on your skills, don’t hoard them or keep the secret. My ambition is to train someone to do all this stuff better than I can and, when that happens, I’ll be so happy. There shouldn’t be any ego in what you do.

8 Enjoy yourself. We’re all makers so enjoy what you make. I get up and do this every day and I still enjoy it.